From Dushanbe, within a 450 km radius and whatever the direction, you enter different worlds that seem to be competing in terms of their historical reach and poetic evocation :
- To the south-east, within Tajikistan 🇹🇯, the glorious Pamir range, « The roof of the world », « The foot of the sun » and « Leg of the bird » and Karl Marx Mountain Peak. Further is the gate to the Hindu Kush and Pakistan 🇵🇰
- To the south, Afghanistan 🇦🇫, the Balkh province, the historical Bactria and Mazar-i-Sharif
- To the west, Uzbekistan 🇺🇿, historical Sogdia and Samarkand. Further is Turkmenistan 🇹🇲 and Merv, the former Alexandria
- To the north Kyrgyzstan 🇰🇬 and the Ferghana valley in Uzbekistan
- To the east, China and the Xinjiang 🇨🇳
Naturally, being at the crossroads of the Chinese, Turco-Mongol and Persian worlds comes with risk of instability. Yet, despite recent – or less recent – hardships, the Tajik people are extremely friendly and welcoming.
Every Tajik I met kept stressing the importance of being « гостеприймный » (hospitable). And because Tajikistan went through these hardships, it is especially enjoyable to watch families, women and children enjoying peace and their city in the late evening.
To be nice, you have first to be strong and resilient. That was one of the main teachings of my stay in Tajikistan.
